Last week, I kicked off a Cheese Limerick contest, with the invitation that the only thing more fun than eating cheese is writing about it. Well, 33 of you agreed and submitted entries. After much deliberation over sake, chocolate and cheese with friends at my dining room table Thursday night, I am finally sober enough to announce the winner of the Cheese Underground Cheese Limerick contest.
Big Plans for Babcock Hall
A Wisconsin institution that’s helped create some of the most famous, best-loved and award-winning artisan and specialty cheeses in the nation may be in line for an extreme makeover.
Dairy Artisan Research Program
Many of you who tolerate my ramblings on this blog were also among the 1,000 visitors to the Second Annual Wisconsin Original Cheese Festival, held Nov. 5 – 7, in Madison, Wis. You witnessed first hand the state’s growing number of cheesemakers who debuted at least 10 new artisan cheeses, presented information during a half dozen tasting seminars, and led several tours of their facilities.
But did you know that many of these cheesemakers are alumni of the Dairy Artisan Research Program, a joint effort of the Babcock Institute, the Department of Food Science at UW-Madison, the Dairy Business Innovation Center, and the state Department of Agriculture?
The Dairy Artisan Research Program provides airfare for individuals who wish to travel abroad to conduct research on dairy production methods in other countries. In return, program participants present what they have learned to others, and write a paper about their findings, which is published and distributed to help the Wisconsin dairy industry.
Alumni cheesemakers who participated in the festival include:
George & Debbie Crave: The Craves traveled to Switzerland in 2004 to study affinage, and have since been recognized as one of Wisconsin’s leading farmstead dairies. They sampled their many cheeses at the festival’s Meet the Cheesemaker Gala.
Andy Hatch: Andy traveled to Europe in 2009 to study new cheesemaking methods. At the festival’s Meet the Cheesemaker Gala, he debuted his new, much-anticipated Rush Creek Reserve, modeled on France’s Vacherin Mont d’Or.
Larry & Clara Hedrich: In 2009, the Hedrichs traveled to the Netherlands and Germany to study goat cheesemaking. Their daughter, Katie Hedrich, sampled the family’s Evalon cheese at the festival, and also participated in the “Next Generation Cheesemakers” seminar.
Willi Lehner: Willi traveled to the British Isles to study affinage in 2005, and has since developed an award-winning line of bandaged, English-style Cheddar.
Jon Metzig: Jon traveled to Ireland, England and Switzerland in 2009. He debuted his new St. Jeanne cheese at the festival, a washed-rind beauty named for his grandmother.
Diana Murphy: Diana traveled to Vermont to attend a Mediterranean Cheesemaking session in 2007. She was a panelist at the festival’s “The Rise of the Woman Farmstead Cheesemaker in Wisconsin.”
Anne Topham: Anne has traveled to Italy and France through the Dairy Artisan Research Program. She sampled her new Chevre Provencal at the festival’s Meet the Cheesemaker Gala.
Bob Wills: Bob traveled to Honduras in 2009 to help emerging cheesemakers hone their craft. Bob debuted his new Water Buffalo Mozzarella at the festival’s Meet the Cheesemaker Gala.
Many thanks to the Babcock Institute, DBIC, DATCP and UW-Madison for making travel opportunities possible for Wisconsin cheesemakers. I’m looking forward to the innovation that continues to occur through the Dairy Artisan Research Program.
Cheese Limericks
Writing about cheese is fun and I think more of you should try it.
Cheeses of the Season
Anyone can give cheese for Christmas. But only super cool people deserve cheese to match the colors of the season. Here are my suggestions for matching your artisan cheese plate to the shades of the upcoming holidays.
Red Errigal, Hook’s Cheese, Mineral Point, Wis.
This mixed milk (sheep and cow) creamy Cheddar-style cheese is crafted by the dynamic husband and wife cheesemaking duo of Tony & Julie Hook. Made with fresh milk from the same local, small, family farms from southwest Wisconsin that have been supplying the Hooks for 30 years, this reddish/orange cheese is a great addition to the holiday cheese plate. Call the Hooks to purchase via mail-order.
Green Crest DolceGreen Crest, Seymour Dairy, Seymour, Wis.
Cheesemaker Mike Brennenstuhl crafts this amazing Italian style Dolce Gorgonzola, which features a green mold imported directly from Italy. It boasts a creamy mouth feel and crisp flavor. Purchase online here.
Bohemian Blue, Hidden Springs Creamery, Westby, Wis.
This sheep’s milk blue cheese is an ode to the Bohemian grandparents of cheesemaker Brenda Jensen. She even penned the description on the label: “For people with artistic or literary interests who disregard conventional standards of behavior.” Made in partnership with the Hooks at their plant in Mineral Point. For sale online at Hidden Springs Creamery.
Snow White Goat Cheddar, Carr Valley Cheese, LaValley, Wis.
This creamy white Goat Cheddar is made in large, 38-pound wheels and cave aged for six months. In 2008, it was named the best cheese in the country, taking Best in Show at the American Cheese Society. For sale online at Carr Valley Cheese.
Urban Cheese
Sheep Symposium
Sheep people from across the continent gathered this past weekend at the 16th annual Great Lakes Dairy Sheep Symposium, the major annual event of the dairy sheep industry in North America. Every year, the event is held in a different location, and this year, lucky for us Wisconsinites, it was hosted in Eau Claire.
The event attracts dairy sheep producers and cheesemakers from Canada, Mexico and more than 20 U.S. states, from California to Alabama to Vermont. In a sign that the American dairy sheep industry is rapidly growing, the conference hosted a record number of 130+ attendees.
Looking around the room during Friday seminars was like looking at a regular who’s who of American artisanal cheesemakers. Sitting to my left was Cindy Callahan, founder of Bellwether Farms in California. To my right were Tom & Nancy Clark, of Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in New York. Ahead of me was Pat Elliott, of Everona Dairy in Virginia, and leading a seminar on sheep milk for cheesemaking was Bob Wills, of Cedar Grove Cheese in Plain, Wis.
After two days of seminars, which featured presentations by innovative producers and top scientists from all over the world, including Master Cheesemaker Ivan Larcher from France, Saturday was tour day – yay! Two school buses of sheep people (and me, with my camera & notebook) motored to Spooner Agricultural Research Station, the oldest continuing research facility in the University of Wisconsin system.
Our tour guides at Spooner were none other than the venerable Dave Thomas, professor of animal sciences at UW-Madison, Yves Berger, Sheep Researcher, Phil Holman, Superintendent, Scott Butterfield, Animal Research technician, and Ann Stellrecht, lead milker.
The Spooner station is one of the only dairy research stations in North America, and is home to about 300 ewes of various breeds. Current research is focused on dairy sheep, especially the genetic improvement of dairy sheep and production of sheep milk for processing into cheese. Other research examines the impact of grain supplementation level on milk production while summer grazing and the effect of ewe lamb feeding level on future milk production.
After a 90-minute tour of the facility, we loaded the buses again and were off to Shepherd’s Ridge Creamery, where Jeff & Vicky Simpkins milk 115 ewes and farm 160 acres. The farmstead creamery has been seven years in the making, and after three years of cheesemaking (Jeff says the first year’s cheese was terrible, the second year’s cheese was edible, and this year’s cheese is actually pretty good), 2010 marks the first year the creamery has offered cheese for sale (see this September blog post about their awesome Oliver’s Reserve).
Jeff provided us a tour of the sheep barn and the milking parlor, while Vicky showed us the creamery and cheese room. Her 100-gallon vat looks miniature compared to most standard cheesemaking vats, but it’s just the right size for Vicky. She stirs the curd by hand – there’s no agitator in sight – and crafts several different raw-milk, hard sheep’s milk cheeses, which are aged in one of the prettiest caves I’ve ever seen.
Located right on the farm, the underground caves feature three distinct aging rooms, with handcrafted wooden doors, arches, a stone-lined entrance, and beautiful wheels of sheep’s milk cheeses gracefully aging on wooden planks.
While I was entranced by the sheep, the caves, the cheeses and the four inches of snow falling to the ground, my daughter, meanwhile, was making friends with the Shepherd’s Ridge farm cats. This one – pictured to the right – would have easily gone home with us, but, alas, mom said no. Thanks to everyone at the Dairy Sheep Symposium for letting me attend your conference as a sheep tourist and learning more about American dairy sheep.
Cheese Festival
They say it takes a village to raise a child. Here in Wisconsin, it takes a tight-knit cheese community to pull off a three-day artisan cheese festival, and boy, do we do it in style.
The Second Annual Wisconsin Original Cheese Festival started Friday and ended Sunday. It included two all-day dairy tours, eight evening cheesemaker dinners, three morning farmers’ market tours, eight different afternoon tasting seminars, an evening Meet the Cheesemaker Gala with 31 companies and 300 attendees, and a 50-vendor Artisan Marketplace that drew 400 people, all of whom went home sporting bright-red Wisconsin Cheese Originals grocery totes chock full of Wisconsin cheese and local gourmet foods.
Yes, more than 1,000 people from around the country spent the weekend in Madison, all in the name of cheese.
And I was afraid I’d throw a party and no one would come.
Thanks to 31 Wisconsin cheesemakers, 22 seminar leaders, 8 chefs, 17 volunteers and a husband who deserves a gold medal for putting up with the festival organizer from hell, another Wisconsin Original Cheese Festival is in the bag. Yee-haw. Thank you to everyone who presented, attended, ate, talked and schlepped cheese. You gave up a weekend to help me promote Wisconsin artisan cheese and I thank you.
Next up: mark your calendar for the Third Annual Wisconsin Original Cheese Festival: Nov. 4, 5, 6, 2011. Same place, same shindig. Just bigger and better.
Water Buffalo Mozzarella
When there’s only a thin electric wire between you and a one-ton bovine named Amando, who’s sporting a ring in his nose and massive curling horns the size of a rhinoceros, one begins to appreciate what it takes to make the only Mozzarella di Bufala in Wisconsin.
You can find Cedar Grove Water Buffalo Mozzarella in Madison at Metcalfe’s Market and Fromagination. It’s also available at Cedar Grove’s retail store at the plant just outside Plain. Other than those outlets, Cedar Grove water buffalo mozz is hard to find, as production is limited and the fresh product needs to be consumed in a timely fashion. The way I look at it, Dubi’s Mozzarella di Bufala is just one more reason to move to Wisconsin.
Holy Crap Moments
This week, I was blessed with not one, but a total of three “Holy Crap” moments. These are the times that after tasting something so amazing, I say those two words without even thinking, usually to the amusement of those around me.
Holy crap, is this cheese good. At only 3 months old, I think it’s ready to sell. Rich, creamy, complex and made in the same two-pound wheel forms as Brenda’s Ocooch Mountain, the new Meadow Melody is a future award contender. Let’s just say that this cheese is so good, I ate basically the entire wedge corn-on-the-cob style while motoring down the road. Yum.









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